Soak the friction plates in oil prior to installation.

Clean the gasket surfaces. Use a razor blade on end (at 90° to the surface) to scrape the gasket material off the case side. Follow by wiping with lacquer thinner. Removing the clutch basket for access is helpful. If the basket is removed, use a new hub-nut locking washer and torque the nut to 50 ft/lbs. Hold on to the hub with a clutch hub holding tool, either specific or universal. Under no circumstances try to prevent the hub from turning by jamming something between the spring bolt bosses, as you will break one or more of them off. The cover’s gasket surface can be cleaned by lapping on a known flat surface with 180-400 grit sandpaper wetted with penetrating oil. Make sure all residue of oil is removed before installation. If you do not have a known flat surface, follow the same procedure as for the case side.

Replace the throw out bearing.

Install the odd friction plate against the pressure plate.

Install the shims inside the springs between the large existing clutch spring retaining washers and the clutch spring bolt bosses. Torque the bolts to the factory spec of 5.8 ft/lbs.

Apply a small amount of ThreeBond 1184 at the upper and lower crankcase seams before installing the cover gasket. Install the cover and torque the screws to 7.2 ft/lbs.

Replace the return spring at the clutch lever arm if found to be broken.

Lubricate the cable with graphite.

Bottom the adjustment screw at the lever perch. Using the adjuster at the clutch arm, adjust the cable slack so that the smallest free play at the end of the lever for all steering angles is 10mm (+5 –0 mm). If you run out of threads, make up the remaining difference with the adjuster at the lever perch.

Locate the clutch lever arm on the shaft's splines in such a manner that the arm is perpendicular to the cable run at half of the lever travel. Readjust lever play as necessary.

The lever should be easy to pull. If it is not, replace the cable (new cables should be lubricated with graphite as well).